
Town
Spotlight: Turners Falls
By
Columnist Lynn Nichols
Turners
Falls isn't a town actually, but one of five villages
that make up the town of Montague. Each of the
"five fingers on one hand" (to quote from the
town seal) — Turners Falls, Millers Falls, Lake
Pleasant, Montague City and Montague Center — has a
distinct personality, rich cultural history and charm
all its own. Over the years the apostrophe, which was
intended to make the name Turner's Falls, was dropped
and the village has been known as Turners Falls since.
The largest of the villages, Turners Falls was founded
in 1868. Rev. E. Hitchcock is said to have given the
village its name, after Capt. William Turner, leader of
the colonists who destroyed hundreds of Pocumtuck
Indians (in a bloody massacre) at the famous "falls
fight." But the town wasn't settled until Alvah
Crocker (where have I heard that name before?), a
prominent Fitchburg man, envisioned a planned industrial
community there. Crocker’s idea was to attract
industry by offering cheap hydro power through the
construction of a dam and canal on the mighty
Connecticut River. His development concept was to sell
mill sites along the power canal and then sell
individual building lots to mill workers. The rest of
the village was laid out in a horizontal grid pattern
with the main avenues labeled alphabetically and the
cross streets numerically. Avenue A, the main commercial
district, was designed as a grand 100 foot wide, tree
lined avenue. The factory owners lived on "the
hill" overlooking the village, thus from the start
creating a class consciousness that has haunted the town
to this day.
Though Turners Falls never quite experienced the scale
of development initially envisioned by its founder, the
village did grow significantly. In its heyday, it was
home to such companies as John Russell Cutlery
(manufacturer of the "Bowie" knife), Montague
Paper, Keith Paper, Turners Falls Paper, Marshall Paper,
the Turners Falls Cotton Mill and Turners Falls Power
Company (1885), the forerunner of Western Massachusetts
Electric Company and Northeast Utilities. The later is
the only one of these companies to still have a stake in
the village. Only the mill buildings (some with new
tenants, some vacant) remain, brick and mortar ghosts of
the industrial revolution.
At the turn of the century, though, downtown Turners
Falls was a vibrant place indeed. From 1895 - 1934, an
electric trolley ran up Avenue A on its route from
Greenfield to Montague and Millers Falls. The Grand
Trunk Hotel was among the most prominent buildings on
the village’s main street. There were taverns and the
Colle Opera House, a vaudeville theater seating 1,000
people. Today, the town's architecture is sadly all
that's left of its former glory. There have been
restoration efforts on the opera house, the Shea Theatre
and the Crocker Building (which was almost destroyed in
a tragic fire set by runaway youth several years ago).
But Turners itself is struggling to survive, a town with
lots of potential but little money. Though the majority
of the town is still white, there is a growing
diversity, including new African American, Latino,
Russian, Asian and Mexican residents. And that has made
racism yet another problem for the town to face, along
with economic disparity, the lack of youth activities,
and (currently) the fight to keep control of MCTV, the
town's community cable access channel, with Montague
Community Cable rather than under the control of GCTV,
rival Greenfield's community access station.
But don't get me wrong. Turners certainly has its
attractions, and for me, one of its brightest star is
the Shady Glen Diner. This modest building located just
over the bridge on Avenue A is home to the hardest
working, most well-organized breakfast crew in the
world. Led by Penny at the grill and Nancy and Carol
waiting tables and the counter, the Shady Glen is not
just an eatery, it's an experience. In fact, we call it
"the morning bar." Populated by regulars who
get routinely harassed by the waitresses (and love it),
it's a constant whirlwind of activity. And the food's
great, too, whether at breakfast, lunch or dinner.
On
the educational front, there's The Fish Ladder and Fish
Viewing Facility. Operated by Northeast Utilities
Company, it was built in the early 1980’s to
facilitate fish passage by Turners Falls Dam and
generate facilities on the power canal. The Fish Viewing
Facility gives viewers a chance to observe anadromous
fish (shad and occasional salmon), through an
aquarium-like viewing window, as they make their way up
the Connecticut River each spring. Located at the
Turners Falls dam, the viewing facility is open
Wednesday through Sunday, mid-May through June. Parking
is available behind the Town Hall and admission is free.
The
town's other main attraction, The Visitor’s Center,
expected to be completed in 2002, will consist of nearly
$1 million in interpretive exhibits and environmental
educational programs on the Connecticut River and
watershed, from its source near the Canadian border to
the Long Island Sound, 400 miles to the south. Admission
to the center will be free of charge to the visiting and
resident public.
A place "waiting for something to happen,"
Turners Falls will almost certainly experience a
renaissance over the next decade or so. Its residents
are fighters and the sentiment to rebuild the village's
economy is too strong to let it continue to go the way
of so many Massachusetts mill towns. It'll take equal
parts of inspiration and perspiration (maybe a brew-pub)
to bring the town back, but I'm betting it'll happen.
And I can't wait to see the day it does. In the
meantime, you'll find Don and I at the Shady Glen,
catching up with our neighbors and enjoying our usual
(same and same) sumptuous breakfast.
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