Because its town center lies on one of the major routes to U Mass, I would venture a guess that many people only think of Sunderland as a town you drive through to get to Amherst. But this community at the crossroads of Routes 116 and 47 has a rich history and character all its own.

Located on the Connecticut River with Montague on its north, Leverett on its east, Amherst on its south-east, and Hadley on the south, Sunderland was incorporated as a town in 1718. Before that, though, it was known as Swampfield, a dubious name given by the settlers because of the town's swamp land. They originally set up their homes on lots along what is now the beautiful maple tree-lined North and South Main Streets. These broad avenues of the Sunderland Center Historic District not only give you the sense of a quintessential New England town, but also showcase architectural styles of the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries.

What many early settlers had called "swamp" proved to be rich farm land that helped make farming the mainstay of Sunderland's economy. Agriculture flourished then, as it does today, with active dairy farms, tobacco farms, produce farms and maple sugaring businesses. But while Sunderlanders were good at tilling the soil, they weren't as deft at building bridges. The town's first 9 bridges spanning the Connecticut fell victim to high water, ice, and piers not high enough to clear rising water levels. It wasn't until construction of the 10th bridge, which is 47 feet above normal water level, that the town finally got it right. This one has stood since 1938.

Modern day Sunderland has a population of about 3,400 and has the distinction of having the highest number of rental units per capita, outside of the City of Boston, than any other municipality in Massachusetts. That's due to the town's transformation from farming community to bedroom community, providing needed housing for students and teachers from the entire five-college area.

Hikers and mountain bikers, horseback riders and back-country skiers are drawn to Sunderland's Mt. Toby State Forest, whose wide fire-road trails and mix of steep and gentle slopes offer challenge for some and a needed respite for others. Trail descriptions can be found in many of the local trail guides (50 Hikes in Massachusetts and Hiking the Pioneer Valley among them) and on many web sites (just search on Mount Toby State Reservation). And if you're looking for a good waterfall (and who isn't), check out the 20-foot Roaring Brook Falls. Access is on Reservation Road, about 3.8 miles north of the intersection of routes 116 and 47.

Of course, being the gourmands that we are, Don and I first discovered Sunderland because of its star dining attraction, Bub's Barbeque. Located on Route 116, Bub's is a down-home place where you can choose from legendary lip-smacking pulled pork, beef ribs and other delicacies with all-you-can-eat fixins (cole slaw, baked beans, mashed potatoes, you name it), then sit yourself down on a picnic table to enjoy. And I do mean enjoy! Don spent 20 years in the Midwest, and he swears by the authenticity of this unassuming place. The next time you want a satisfying meal, but don't mind getting a tad messy, you owe yourself a trip to this Sunderland institution.

An attraction with a more limited life span is Mike's Amaizing Maze, a 6-acre corn stalk maze, this year in the shape of the Mona Lisa (I kid you not!). This seasonal attraction (open from September 1st to October 28th) also includes a mini-maze, games, picnic area, and full service corn tower with a 360 degree view. Located on Route 47 (just a short distance from the 116 intersection, t's a great place to take the kids. For details, visit www.mikesmaze.com.

Now that the foliage is at its peak, it's a perfect time to explore the charms of this historic community. I think you'll find that the former Swampfield is indeed worth a visit.

For a exceptionally detailed history of Sunderland, check out http://messier.astro.umass.edu/Sunderland/index.html. Click on "Narrative History."

Send your friends a link to this page.

(Back to Spotlights)