
Town
Spotlight: Leverett
By Columnist Lynn Nichols
March 28, 2002
Leverett
seems to have it all. Sandwiched between Montague,
Sunderland, Shutesbury and Amherst, yet removed from
major highways (except for Route 63, which slices down
its western border), this town of 2,000 (give or take a
few) has close proximity to major areas of commerce but
maintains a definite country feel. Its land has a
natural beauty that comes from the juxtaposition of
valleys, glacial ravines and wooded hillsides. It’s a
setting that promotes individuality and creativity, both
qualities cherished by Leverett residents.
Leverett's roots go back to the late 1600s, when brave
settlers moved from the center of Sunderland to the
northern section of town known as Swampfield Plantation.
But it wasn't until the 1730s, when the Lancaster Road
was built, that the area became accessible, and in 1750,
the first permanent settlement was established in what
is now Leverett Center. By 1773, the hardy settlers
longed for their own community, so they petitioned
Sunderland to form their own town and Sunderland granted
separation in 1774. According to local history, the
settlers took their name from Sir John Leverett, a
former Massachusetts Bay Colony governor distinguished
by his history of opposition to British rule and
religious prosecution.
With
mills powered by the Sawmill River and Roaring Brook,
fertile soil and deep woods, 19th century Leverett was a
self-sufficient community of farmers, mill workers,
lumbermen and shop hands. Artisans of all types also
plied their trade, and their decorative arts work
inspired one early resident to become an artist himself.
Erastus Salisbury Field, born in Leverett in 1805, was a
self-taught portrait painter who, like many itinerant
artists of the day, made a good living for himself
travelling town to town painting likenesses of rural
middle class citizens. But if that's all he accomplished
in his artistic career, he probably wouldn't even have
rated a footnote in history. But in his late 30s, after
Field had moved to New York City, he began to produce
subject paintings on political and historical themes.
And in the later years of the Civil War, his political
leanings inspired him to begin his masterpiece, a very
odd work entitled The Historical Monument of the
Republic. A work of monumental (no pun intended)
proportions, the painting depicts ten towers like darkly
bizarre wedding cakes, connected by steel bridges
supporting steam engines. On each of the towers, Field
represented periods of American history, from the early
settlements to the post Civil War period. The incidents
he chose reflected his moral and philosophical beliefs,
which he described in detail in a guide and catalogue to
the work published in 1876. Though the catalogue
suggests that Field actually intended for the
incomprehensible structure to be built, he never saw
that dream realized. But the complex and intriguing work
survives, a testament to a man with a truly unique
perspective on his times. It's much too difficult to
describe, so I urge you to check it out yourself —
it's part of the permanent collection of the Springfield
Museum of Fine Arts.
Today's
Leverett still attracts artists and craftspeople. The
nonprofit Leverett Crafts & Arts, in the town
center, offers studio space, a gallery and a gift shop,
and many other artisans work in the privacy of home
studios. The town also has its share of educators,
entrepreneurs and other businesspeople, whose paths
intersect at the Village Co-op (a well-stocked,
community-owned store that will soon offer beer and
wine, I'm told by residents), the elementary school, the
town dump and the post office.
Leverett
also beckons to those wishing to live a more reflective
life. Though the town has its traditional churches, it
is also home to a Friends Meeting House as well as the
huge white Peace Pagoda. Built 16 years ago by young
Americans under the auspices of Japanese Buddhist monks
and nuns of the Nipponzan Myohoji order, the Pagoda sits
atop a hill, a gentle but commanding presence dedicated
to the prospect of global peace. Open to the public
(access is from Cave Hill Road), the magnificent
structure is a haven for quiet contemplation, especially
in these turbulent times.
If
you're more in the mood for exploration than reflection,
stop by Rattlesnake Gutter, site of scenic rock
formations left behind by glacial ice, Charcoal Kilns
(on old Coke Kiln Road near Moores Corner) where vast
amounts of charcoal were produced 200 years ago, or
Leverett Pond, which offers boating, swimming and
fishing.
Beautiful,
tranquil, private and independent (yet friendly),
Leverett exemplifies all that's good about life in the
Pioneer Valley. Detour off the highway and visit
sometime. It's a place that's definitely worth a trip.
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