If your only experience with Hadley is traveling on Route 9 from Amherst to Northampton, you probably think there's not much to the town. But if you veer off Route 9 (politely, of course, using your signal first), you'll encounter the real town of Hadley. It's a place of lush farm land (the town has the largest number of acres in agriculture in the Pioneer Valley) and well-kept homes, fields of asparagus and herds of Holsteins. It's a place with all the beauty and tranquility of a 19th century landscape painting. Who knew?

And speaking of asparagus, did you know that Hadley was once known as the "Asparagus Capital of the World?" Hadley Grass, as it is still called by the farmers that raise it, is legendary. First grown by Polish immigrants recruited to the region from Ellis Island as farm hands, asparagus had become a popular crop by the 1920s until a particularly virulent disease wiped out much of it out in the 1950s. But a few hardy asparagus farmers held on, and Hadley Grass persevered. We bought a bunch ourselves, tossed it on the grill, and were in seventh Heaven. If you love asparagus, you haven't lived until you've tried Hadley Grass. And you can get your opportunity at two upcoming asparagus suppers — May 20th at the First Congregational Church of Hadley and June 10th at the North Hadley Congregational Church (see details at the end of this article).

We've heard differing stories about Hadley's beginnings, but there's no disputing the date of settlement. A group of colonists (enticed from Plymouth by the Nipmuck Indians in one account, and a dissenting Connecticut Congregation under the leadership of Rev. John Russell in another account) settled in the area in 1659, drawn there by its good corn harvests and plentiful hunting. By 1661, Hadley had become a formal town, encompassing about 80 acres and what are now the towns of Amherst, Sunderland, Hatfield, South Hadley and Granby. The original crops were wheat, corn, barley, oats and rye. Irish immigrants brought potato farming to the sprawling town in the early 1700s, and by 1792, broomcorn was the dominant crop, making Hadley the nation's broomcorn and broom manufacturing capital. Today, asparagus, potatoes, corn and other vegetables are plentiful at the farm stands along River Drive and South Maple Street. Check out www.hadleyma.org/history.htm for a complete history of the town.

We stopped at two farm stands, Flayvors of Cook Farm and Boisvert Farm (also known as the North Hadley Sugar Shack) during our visit. Flayvors has a restaurant serving light lunches — fresh salads, deli style sandwiches and delicious baked goods plus 24 "flayvors" of homemade ice cream made from their Cook Farm milk. They also sell Cabot cheeses, Diemand Farm eggs, and other goodies in the dairy case. Boisvert Farm operates a hamburger/hot dog stand and an ice cream stand from May until the end of October (try their yummy maple ice cream), and has a full-flown sugaring operation late February through early April with daily pancake breakfasts. Both of these stands are well worth a visit. And there are at least 8 other farms to visit in town. Check out the list in CISA's 2001 Farm Products Guide.

Besides the bucolic farmland vistas, the other thing that's hard to miss about Hadley is Mt. Holyoke. Situated in the Joseph Skinner State Park (the peak is also known as Mt. Skinner), the mountain serenely surveys the town and its environs and offers truly breathtaking views of the Connecticut River valley from the Summit House at its peak. It's a sight not to be missed, unless of course you happen to be afraid of heights. One of our group climbed to the summit only to find himself huddled against the white clapboard Summit House in the fetal position until pried away from the building and safely escorted to the terra firma below. He'll just have to enjoy the view of the mountain from Route 91 from now on.

For a taste of the best the Pioneer Valley has to offer, venture off Route 9 the next time you pass through Hadley. You'll be pleasantly surprised. We were!

Don's Grilled Hadley Grass Recipe:
Go visit Hadley and purchase 1 bunch of Hadley Grass (asparagus). I prefer the thinnest ones available, but that's just me. Cut off the "woody" ends. Lay the asparagus on a flat surface or dinner plate. Brush the asparagus with extra virgin olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Now here's the extra kick. Sprinkle the asparagus with 1/2 tsp of freshly ground nutmeg. Fire up the grill, or use a grill pan. Place the asparagus over the coals for about 10 minutes until tender turning occasionally to keep from charring. Eat 'em up!

Asparagus Suppers
May 20: Hadley Congregational Church — seatings at 5:15 and 6:30 PM. Asparagus, ham, potato salad and strawberry shortcake. Adults, $8,50; children, $4.00. Call Marjorie Cook for reservations, 413-584-6255. 

June 10: North Hadley Congregational Church (Rt. 47) — seatings at 5:30 and 7:00 PM. Hadley asparagus, ham, potato salad, home made bread, ice cream and strawberries. $8.00. For more information, call 413-584-8969.

Farm Stands
North Hadley Sugar Shack and Boisvert Farm — www.northhadleysugarshack.com
Flayvors of Cook Farm — www.cookfarm.com

Mt. Holyoke
Check out www.savemtholyokerange.com/ to find out about the fight to preserve Mt. Holyoke and Mt. Tom from developers. For description of a day hike in Joseph Skinner State Park — visit www.the-spa.com/tony.maniscalco/r47tosh.htm.

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