It's one of the most visited tourist destinations in our area, but Deerfield had to go through more strife in its history than any other Pioneer Valley town before earning that distinction.

The earliest community to be settled in Franklin County, it had the misfortune of a strategic location. First a Pocumtuck Indian village, it was destroyed by invading Mohawks in 1664. In 1669, the area (still called Pocumtuck) was resettled as a white village by hardy men from Dedham, MA, seeking good farmland but was destroyed in 1675 during the conflict known as King Philip's War. Abandoned for many years, the area was resettled again in the late 1600s and by 1704, the town (now called Deerfield) had grown to a population of 250. But like the villages that existed on the spot before it, Deerfield was exposed on the frontier. There were no English settlements to the west of it for fifty miles, none at all to the north, and forty miles of wilderness to the east. It almost invited attack.

And that, of course, is exactly what happened. In the pre-dawn hours of the leap-year morning of February 29, 1704, Deerfield's inhabitants were asleep. Because of the constant threat of Indian attack, the townspeople spent their sleeping hours inside the town's fortified palisade, guarded by a night watchman. On this fateful morning, however, the watchman had neglected his duty. And unbeknownst to the residents, a military force of two hundred to three hundred French and Indians (who had traveled close to three hundred miles to reach the town) had amassed two miles north of town. Silently they crossed the Connecticut River and crossed the two miles of open farmland to the sleeping town. Aided by snowdrifts against the sides of the fort, they were easily able to scale the walls and quickly move inside. A cry arose and the bloody attack began.

The townspeople fought bravely, but the combined French and Indian forces proved too strong an opponent. At battle's end, 56 English men, women and children were dead, and another 109 had been captured (and taken to Canada). Three-fifths of the townspeople were gone and half the houses had been burned to the ground.

After the attack, the town clung to life, slowly returning to normalcy. News of the ordeal spread, helped when Deerfield's minister Rev. John Williams published his view of the events in The Redeemed Captive Returning to Zion. Part religious tract and part gripping narrative, the book became an 18th century bestseller, going through six editions before 1800. The raid would be immortalized in other literary works, including a chapter in Francis Parkman's book Half Century of Conflict and in Mary P. Wells books, The Boy Captive of Old Deerfield and The Boy Captive in Canada.

By 1707, Deerfield was once again strong and has been continuously populated ever since. Though the early economy was built on tobacco and cucumbers, pickle factories and the manufacture of pocketbooks, the main economic force today is the town's private schools – Deerfield Academy, the Bement School and the Eaglebrook School. The town's past is preserved by two organizations, Historic Deerfield and the Pocumtuck Valley Memorial Association (known as Old Deerfield). Although sometimes at odds with each other, these two groups do an excellent job of showcasing 18th century New England life and artifacts. The town's main street is a historic preservation and 13 of the houses that line it are open to tour. Historic Deerfield's Flynt Center of Early American Life and the Pocumtuck Valley Memorial Association Museum both house impressive collections. The latter provides educational to all 90 schools in the Pioneer Valley; it also operates the major craft fairs held three times a year (twice on the Big E Grounds and once in Deerfield).

One of the other draws in Deerfield proper is The Deerfield Inn. Opened in 1884 and now operated by innkeepers Karl and Jane Sabo, it offers 23 guest rooms and a restaurant presided over by Chef Didier Voisin featuring a fine selection of dishes with an emphasis on local ingredients.

The Brick Church Meeting House is the setting for Music in Deerfield, a six-event concert series which is gaining prominence for its excellent programming. Upcoming concerts including the Borromeo String Quartet (on January 31st), the Guarneri String Quartet (on February 28th) and the Orion String Quartet (on March 29th).

The White Church in the restoration is also the setting of many events, as well as being the rehearsal space for the Pioneer Valley Symphony Orchestra & Chorus (shameless plug).

Another Deerfield destination is Woolman Hill, a Quaker retreat, conference and education center that offers a full shedule of activities and is also available for rental to outside groups looking for a contemplative meeting space. Woolman Hill is also home to our friends at the Traprock Peace Center.

Also on 5 and 10 and just south of Historic Deerfield is Richardson's Candy Kitchen, which offers handmade creams, truffles, mints, cordials, buttercrunch, caramels, nut clusters and their famous dixies, as well as chocolate covered orange peel, ginger,

apricots and pretzels. Something to keep in mind as Valentine's Day approaches.

And don't forget about our favorite farm stand. Though it's not open now, Ciesluk's is arguably the best place in the Valley to buy local corn. And their other vegetables and fruits are mighty fine, too.

Down the road a piece (as my husband would say), lies South Deerfield, which has attractions of its own. Chief among them is Yankee Candle. Being allergic to most scents, it's not a place I frequent, but its theme park atmosphere makes it worth a visit. And the new home and garden shop is very impressive.

Between Yankee Candle and Historic Deerfield is Magic Wings Butterfly Conservatory, 4000 square foot indoor conservatory with more than 2000 butterflies from all over the world.

South Deerfield is also becoming famous for its beer – it's the headquarters for Berkshire Brewing Company. And Sienna has made it equally famous for fine dining. Their sumptuous menu includes such favorites as grilled Chilean Swordfish, pan seared venison loin and forest mushroom pot pie. It's a small place, though, so reservations are definitely advised.

Booklovers are sure to find something to please at Meetinghouse Books, a used bookshop in a converted 19th century chapel that houses an eclectic inventory of more than 25,000 books in many categories. It's located on North Main Street.

One of the best views of the valley's agrarian landscape is from the summit of Mt. Sugarloaf. Composed of a prominent sandstone rock called Sugarloaf Arkose, it's also a fine example of the Connecticut Valley's geological history.

Deerfield deserves its reputation as a premier tourist destination. For aficionados of history, dining, and shopping, it holds many attractions. And on a beautiful spring or summer day, there's nothing better than a leisurely stroll through Historic Deerfield. It's one of the places that makes the Pioneer Valley truly special.

Some favorite links:

www.historic-deerfield.org

www.old-deerfield.org

www.magicwings.net

www.deerfieldinn.com

www.woolmanhill.org

www.traprockpeace.org

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